What is Special about Venice? Musings and Scribbles

In which I get lost, manage to successfully use Google maps and get hit on by a hot Italian architect!

On my first day of being a tourist in Venice I was up with the birds. I crept out of my dorm room so as not to disturb my roomies and out into the balmy morning air. Excitement and nervousness to try out my fledgling Italian mingled as I waited my turn in a tiny coffee stop. Busy with locals, I stumbled through the Italian for, ‘I would like a coffee please,’ (vorrei un caffe con latte per favour, just in case you were wondering) and resorted to pointing to buy a pastry to accompany it.

Being a tourist in Venice: Breakfast in San Marco’s Square

I followed my google maps around a few corners to arrive at the lagoon on the east side of San Marco Square. I perched on a stone pedestal enjoying the gentle sound of water lapping and the warmth of the rising sun casting a blush over the ancient stone of the Doge’s Palace. It was the perfect start to my day. Breakfast al fresco surrounded by the history of Venice.

As I sipped my coffee I watched a young woman in a red dress, twirling for the perfect Instagram shot. There was just me, her and her photographer. The peace was idyllic.

I moved off to explore San Marco square; I hadn’t realised from my seat how huge it actually was. Looking around I then came face to face with the ornate stonework and tiled facade of the Basillica… I was in heaven. Due to the time, I practically had the square to myself, nothing was open, no people were barging through my view. I could just stand and try take it all in.

The Doge’s Palace

Part of being a tourist in Venice for me, was the amazing architecture and history. I had booked an early ticket to the Doge’s Palace, to try get a head start on the crowds, so was outside queuing when the doors opened at 8.30am. This proved to be an excellent idea and one I thoroughly recommend to you. Sharing the space with only a couple of tour groups, I was able to wind my way through the palace, down into the prison and over the famous Bridge of Sighs – so named by Lord Byron, as it was the last view of Venice prisoners got before being taken down to their cells.

St Mark’s Basillica

Following my visit to the Palace I joined the queue for the Basillica. It’s good to know before arriving that no bags are allowed in. There is a bag holding place just off the square, if you leave by the clock exit adjacent to the Basillica, you can’t miss it, on the right hand side.

I would also recommend trying to time your visit for when the Basillica is illuminated which is from 11.30 – 12.45. Bear in mind that you cannot sit or wait, the line of tourists winds right through the church and you are expected to keep moving. You are also not allowed to take photographs or video. Check out this video below for more of the history of St Mark’s: so interesting!

My goal had been to see the fantastic bronze horses, reputed to have been created as early as the 2nd century! However, after much queuing I was starting to feel the need for refreshments and there was another giant queue to get upstairs to view them. I decided to come back later, which for some reason never happened, #reasonstoreturn.

Part of the fun of being a tourist in Venice is wandering, getting lost and wandering some more

The rest of my day, being a tourist in Venice, consisted of a plethora of piazza’s, many winding alleyways full of rustic colour and faded grandeur, a spiral tower, the coolest bookshop and being asked out by an attractive Italian man.

I accidentally found my way to the Rialto Bridge, which was the busiest place I came across in all my time in Venice. I nibbled on some Arancini, (stuffed rice balls), which are a local delicacy that I totally recommend you try, they are so good.

Piazza’s, lunchtime musings…

Taking my picnic lunch, Italian style, I paused and took a seat in yet another Piazza. These piazzas are scattered all across Venice. You wander into them from winding alleys that suddenly open out onto a vista of flowering trees, open space and benches to relax on. There are usually local children playing, cafes circling the edges and often a church overseeing the proceedings. One other thing to note about Venice is that there are water fountains to be found in lots of these piazza. The water is drinkable and you can fill your water bottles up for free. No need for single use plastic in Venice!

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

I then made a concerted effort to find the Scala Contarini del Bovolo: a tower with a winding staircase sounds way less exciting that it should!, Again this did not disappoint. “Del Bovolo” translates to “of the snail” in the Venetian dialect, referring to the spiral shape of the scala (staircase), which was unique when it was built in the 15th century. The distinguished looking Italian gentleman that I asked for directions escorted me to the tower, then waited outside until I returned, pressing his business card on me and urging me to accept dinner with him! Not used to such open invitations, I declined. Maybe now I would accept, but at the time it was all a bit overwhelming! Even if he was hot!

More About Scala Contarini del Bovolo

The Scala Contarini del Bovolo had a tiny museum that discussed the philanthropy of Venetian wealthy society. They provided homes for girls, to rescue them from being, or to prevent them from becoming prostitutes. It would seem the only two occupations for young homeless girls were to become either a prostitute or a nun!! Two extremes!

The spiral stair itself was beautiful, there was a lovely garden laid out below and some great views across the russet rooftops.

It felt like everything was a highlight that first day. It was my first experience of being abroad myself; everything I did and everywhere I went was a first. Everything was new to me. I felt so much excitement. And so much pride and happiness in myself that I had made the decision to come. Even being lost wasn’t as scary as I expected. It seemed the sun shone down on me lighting my soul from within, with possibilities and joy.

One final musing on being a tourist in Venice

Aqua Alta Bookshop

One other place I went in search of, and have to mention is the Aqua Alta Bookshop. If you’re a bit of a book nerd like me you’ve probably already heard of it. It is THE coolest place.

It mostly sells second hand books, in both Italian and English, stacked high to the ceiling. But you’ll find that they are stacked up in bathtubs and boats because of the frequent flooding they’ve suffered with the Aqua Alta or high tide that they are named after.

It’s super quirky, jam packed with texts and a fire exit that opens directly onto the canal. You may recognise it from Instagram. There’s also a resident cat who is happy to be petted and adored.

I found a number of Jane Austin books, in Italian, but not Pride & Prejudice, which is my daughter’s favourite – I had to resort to a modern store to pick that up for her. She wants to collect a copy in the local language for every country I visit and as I love visiting book stores then it’s a win for both of us 🙂

Final musings

Thereby ends my musings on being a tourist in Venice. My first day of solo travel was a resounding success. I was lost and found, filled with joy and in bed pretty early after all that walking!

Was I lonely on my own – not at all. Was I worried about my safety? Again, not at all, I think this helped immensely in becoming comfortable with being lost in the many winding alleys of Venice.

Much has been written about the overtourism and overcrowding of Venice. However, During my visit in October – possibly outwith cruise ship season? the only real crowds I came across were on the streets immediately surrounding the Rialto Bridge and enroute walking to the train station a high street with lots of stores. But for the main, yes there were people, but it was easy to often be alone in an alley way, or be sat in a piazza with just a few others.

I think Venice will always hold a special place in my heart, as it is the place that opened my eyes and heart to a whole new world of possibilities: travel. Thankyou for that Venice. We have unfinished business, so Venice, it’s not farewell, it’s, I’ll be seeing you.

Practicalities

Useful websites to buy advance tickets for the Doges Palace, St Mark’s Basillica and Scala Contarini del Bovolo:

• https://palazzoducale.visitmuve.it/en/pianifica-la-tua-visita/tickets/
• http://www.basilicasanmarco.it/?lang=en
• https://www.gioiellinascostidivenezia.it/

Have you visited Venice? What was your favourite thing to see or do? Or if not, what would you love to experience? Let me know in the comments below