How to Have the Perfect 3 Day Edinburgh Weekend

Let me show you how to have the perfect 3 day Edinburgh weekend itinerary planned for your trip. As a local to Edinburgh for over 30 years I know my way around. Let me guide you through the most efficient way to have the best time in Edinburgh, making the most of your time here.

This is quite a lengthy guide, so get yourself a cuppa and settle in.

Day 1

Let’s start our perfect 3 day Edinburgh weekend soaking up its history in the Old Town.

Edinburgh Castle

Start with a visit to Edinburgh Castle. As you enter the castle, the Esplanade offers you amazing views out over the city, although seating put out for the Edinburgh Tattoo during the festival in August may mar the view.

You can easily spend 3 hours enjoying all the history that the castle has to offer

You can purchase tickets directly from Edinburgh Castle at https://www.edinburghcastle.scot/plan-your-visit/tickets. If you plan to visit during the summer, make sure to book early, and please be aware that if online tickets are sold out, there will be no in-person availability at the entrance.

The Royal Mile

After soaking up all the castle has to offer, spend the next hour or so wandering down the Royal Mile. The Royal Mile is aptly named because it is a mile between the Castle at the top and Holyrood Palace at the bottom. Along the way you will find so many things to stop for: lots of cute Scottish shops selling cashmere, whisky or just souvenirs, along with museums and places to grab some refreshment.

There are so many closes along the way that you can explore, (close is an Edinburgh word for little alleyway). Some open up into squares, surrounded by 17th Century high rise tenements. Others lead to steep stairs heading down into the newer town below.

I recommend popping into one of the many local eateries for lunch along the way. The Witchery is renowned both for it’s food and for how haunted the building is! It has 9 rooms you can stay in and 2 restaurants, The Secret Garden Room or the main restaurant. Check it out for yourself here: https://www.thewitchery.com/ I have eaten there a couple of times and it never disappoints.

St Giles Cathedral

St Giles has stood as a working church for almost 900 years!! (Founded in 1124, next year is the big one). It is free to visit, though they ask for a donation if you can, of £5. You can get an audio guide or join 1 of the 2 daily tours at either 10.30 or 14.30 that will give you an insight into the church from John Knox’s Reformation, to connections with the Royal Family, to rebels and unicorns! Definitely worth popping into for the stained glass windows alone.

Mary King’s Close

Mary King’s Close is an opening into Edinburgh’s dark history. Did you know there is a whole warren of streets and flats underneath the Royal Mile?

As Edinburgh grew, it had nowhere to expand to. It was built on volcanic rock and the city was walled. Therefore, they built up, creating the world’s 1st skyscrapers in the 1700’s. When the authorities wanted to build a new Royal Exchange, they decided to knock down the flats opposite St Giles Cathedral and build using the origins of the flats for the foundations. Because of the slope, many houses were left intact, albeit underground.

The Plague killed many people, but also meant that the underground alleys and houses began to fall in disrepair and became places for the poorest of the city to live.

Some residents however, refused to leave and so there came to be this underground community. You could pop down to go get a new wig for example! The last family to leave were the Chesney’s, who were saw-makers. They continued to live underground until an unbelievable 1902!

Your tour of this incredible place will be led by a costumed guide, who will tell stories of the residents of the close, lots of gory facts about what it was like to live in that time. Local legend has it that the close was blocked off and plague victims left to die. In reality it was more like quarantine with Covid. One room in particular is said to be haunted by a little girl. Lots of tourists bring her soft toys or dolls and leave them for her.

I definitely recommend a stop at Mary King’s Close if you have the time and are not too claustrophobic. Find out more & get your tickets here: https://www.realmarykingsclose.com/plan-your-visit/opening-times-prices/

World’s End Pub

The World’s End Pub got it’s name from being built into the wall that used to surround Edinburgh. Locals used to say that beyond the wall the world was no longer theirs. It was the last building people would see before leaving the safety of the town, hence the name. The building dates back to the 16th Century and Outlander fans will be aware of it being featured in Season 3. If you fancy more than a drink, you should definitely book as it’s always super busy.

Holyrood Palace

Holyrood Palace is the King’s official residence in Edinburgh. You can tell if he’s staying as the flag will be flying and it will be closed to visitors.

There is so much history surrounding Holyrood Palace. Mary Queen of Scots lived here for 6 years. you can visit her bedchamber and supper room, where she witnessed her husband Lord Darnley jealously murdered here secretary, David Rizzio. You can also see her outer chamber, where she prayed and enjoyed many religious debates with John Knox. As a devout Catholic she was directly opposed to the ideas of the Protestant John Knox.

Bonnie Prince Charlie stayed at Holyrood during his sojourn into Scotland in 1745. By all accounts he brought the place to life, with balls and receptions attended by 100’s of his followers.

You can also view the Throne room, the State Rooms and the Great Gallery, which has portraits of 95 Scottish Kings and 1 Queen.

Outside there are the gardens and the Gothic ruins of Holyrood Abbey to enjoy, along with a tea room for refreshments.

Tickets can be bought https://www.rct.uk/visit/palace-of-holyroodhouse

Day 2 of our perfect 3 day Edinburgh weekend

In which we visit the Grassmarket, Victoria Street and Greyfriars Kirkyard in search of Harry Potter

Let’s continue our perfect 3 day Edinburgh weekend, with day 2, in which we spend some time in search of Harry Potter!

It is well known that J.K. Rowling wrote some of the 1st Harry Potter book in the Elephant Cafe, on George IV Bridge, in Edinburgh. Some fans may also know that she booked into the landmark Balmoral Hotel to finish the series, spending 6 months in room 552, which has since been renamed the J.K. Rowling suite. Unfortunately, the Elephant House is currently closed, following a fire in an adjacent building. But, we can still explore the Old Town to discover where the inspiration came from.

Even if you are not a fan of the Harry Potter universe, the charm and history of Old Edinburgh appeals to everyone.

Get a bus up to George IV Bridge to start today’s wanderings, they are super frequent from the bottom of the Mound on Princess Street, or enjoy the workout. Wander over the bridge, looking down at the incredible 7 stories that were built back in the 1700’s. On the left is the National library of Scotland, and each of those 7 stories holds books. It’s one of my favourite places in Edinburgh, though, unfortunately, you have to join to get access to the reading rooms. On the right is Edinburgh’s Central Library, which is open to the public. The reading room in here still has soaring ceilings and has recently been refurbished. If you are a bibliophile it’s worth a quick stop.

Greyfriars Bobby Statue & Greyfriars Kirkyard

Before we get to Harry Potter, we cannot be on George IV bridge and not talk about Greyfriars Bobby. Greyfriars Bobby is one of Edinburgh’s old legends. Bobby was a Skye Terrier. In the late 19th century, when his owner passed away, he refused to leave the site of his grave, until his own death 14 years later. You can see his grave just as you enter Greyfriars Kirkyard.

There was even a film made made about him https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0435597/ You can watch it on Amazon Prime or Disney +

On a side note, interesting fact about me – I used to work in Greyfriars Bobby Bar, which is next to the kirkyard at the top of Candlemaker Row. It’ a great place to pop in for a wee drink or lunch. When I worked there, over 30 years ago(!!!) it had the best juke box in Edinburgh, but it’s much more aimed at food and tourists these days, rather than rowdy students!

Greyfriars Kirkyard and the Harry Potter Connection

Greyfriars Kirk is a beautiful church. I love to attend the Christmas Eve carol service there, so if you are in Edinburgh over the festive period, I 100% recommend trying to attend. It’s free, though you may have to book tickets beforehand, since Covid.

However, you’re probably more interested in the fact that J.K. Rowling was inspired by the gravestones in the kirkyard for many of her characters. You can find graves for Cruikshank, Scrymgeor, Moodie, Tom Riddle and even Potter! You can spend a fun couple of hours searching for the gravestones. Or, if you want a guide to finding the gravestones, They Happy Days Travel Blog have a great guide, with directions around the graveyard to each stone: https://thehappydaystravels.com/greyfriars-kirkyard-harry-potter-graveyard-edinburgh/

The Grassmarket & Victoria Street

From the Kirkyard walk along past Greyfriars Bobby Pub, down Candlemaker Row to reach the Grassmarket. On your right you will find Victoria Street winding its way back up to George IV Bridge. It’s very easy to see the likeness between the cobbled street, full of tiny shops and Diagon Alley from the Harry Potter books. These days you will find a couple of shops dedicated to Harry Potter, but there are lots of others selling Scottish handicrafts and clothes.

In the Grassmarket you will find some shops, but mostly pubs and restaurants. The Last Drop dates back to 17th century. It is famous for its reference to the hanging spot on the square outside. Back in the day, Grassmarket was where farmers brought their goods to sell. It was also the main gallows for the city. Crowds would come to watch the hangings and enjoy a drink! It is rumoured to have a resident ghost, who has been known to play tricks on staff and guests…

Tip from a local. If you decide to explore the Grassmarket in a morning, and fancy grabbing breakfast to go and sit on a bench to eat whilst enjoying the ambience – beware the Seagulls!! One lovely, warm summer morning, my son and I thought that was a great idea. Then we saw Seagulls dive bombing unsuspecting tourists and knocking their sandwiches out of their hands. They swoop in from behind, over your shoulder, taking you unawares and stealing your food. Even after watching this happen to others, my son found himself a victim and sadly, he became bacon roll less… You’ve been warned, don’t let it spoil your perfect 3 day Edinburgh weekend.

Princess Street Gardens

If after shopping and eating you continue downhill and follow the road to your right, you will come to the most westerly entrance to Princess Street Gardens.

The gardens used to be a loch, which was drained in 1820. It divides the Old Town from the New Town.

During the festive season it is the home to Edinburgh’s Christmas Market, but for the rest of the year it’s a great place for a stroll, an ice-cream, maybe a whirl on the carousel. On warm, sunny days in the summer locals flock to the gardens to relax on the grassy banks. Why not join them?

The Scott Monument

The gardens are also the location of the Scott Monument. The tribute to Sir Walter Scott is one of the iconic Edinburgh landmarks. You can climb the 287 stairs for a birds eye view over the town. Be aware though, they are steep and narrow. There is also a museum devoted to the life and his literary legacy.

Your walk through the gardens will bring you out at the east end of Princess Street, just a short distance from the Balmoral Hotel.

Afternoon Tea at The Balmoral Hotel

To finish off our 2nd day, there is no better place than to have afternoon tea in the Balmoral Hotel. You might not be able to afford a stay in the J.K. Rowling Suite, but you can soak up the stunning, Edwardian, elegance of the Palm Court. There’s often a harpist playing. You get a traditional afternoon tea, with finger sandwiches and cakes. Champagne is optional, choose this option when booking. You must book ahead for this. Last time I tried to go it was a rainy, afternoon in March and it was still fully booked!! I have taken my mum there as a treat and it is well worth the expense.

Day 3, the final day of our perfect 3 day Edinburgh weekend

On our last day of our perfect 3 day Edinburgh weekend, we head to the New town for a perfect brunch and shopping experience. Then we head outdoors to climb Edinburgh landmarks of Arthurs Seat or Carlton Hill.

Edinburgh’s New Town was planned and therefore has a very symmetrical feel, unlike the higgildy, piggildy Old Town. It was built between 1767 and 1850. Charlotte Square at the west end of George Street, was designed by Robert Adam in 1791 and is considered to be an architectural masterpiece. You can only get access to the gardens in this square during the book festival. St Andrew’s Square, at the east end, however is now an open space for all to use, with seating and a coffee stand. You’ll notice that there is a very different feel to the space in the New Town. The tall Georgian house and squares are ordered, with wider streets and more light than the old town.

Tiger Lily & Shopping

I can’t think of a better place to begin our day in the New Town, brunch at Tiger Lily’s.

Next spend a couple of hours browsing the stores that line George Street. There are many upper end clothing stores and jewellers. I’m really excited that there are plans to make this area a pedestrian zone, but probably not until 2025.

Stop off at the Assembly Rooms, which is used for concerts and markets, as well as for festival venues.

There are also restaurants and cafes scattered the whole length of George Street. At the East End you should make an advance booking to go to the Dome. Whether you go for just one drink or for a meal, the interior of this former bank is stunning!

Walking through St Andrew’s Square you cannot miss the Flagship Harvey Nichols store. If you are not done with shopping yet, carry on along Multrees walk, for designer luggage and clothes. You will then reach the newly renovated Sy James Quarter, for even more shops.

Museums

If shopping is not really your thing, there are a number of art galleries and museums you could while away your morning in. The National Gallery is at the foot of the Mound, opposite Hanover Street, the National Portrait Gallery is at the east end of Queen street, just a block below George Street, or the Museum of Modern Art is a short bus ride away (catch the 13, 41, 43, 200). You will find art galleries on the streets between George St and Queen Street.

Calton Hill & Arthur’s Seat

If you have any energy left after all that shopping, the perfect antidote is to get outside in the fresh Scottish air.

Arthur’s Seat was formed from a volcano and stands 251m high. It is surrounded by Holyrood Park and Salisbury Crags.

There are many paths you can take for incredible views out over the city. You will find just as many locals out running and walking their dogs as tourists. The climb to the top and back will take about 2 hours.

Calton Hill is Edinburgh’s folly. Formed from another volcano, Calton Hill is easily distinguishable from the Roman acropolis that sits at the top. The unfinished structure was meant to be a National Monument of Scotland, but in 1829 they ran out of money. Interestingly, Calton Hill, and the wide sweeping path, Humes Walk, that leads to the summit is known as the first public park in Britain, opened in 1724 and the first public footpath, (1775).

You get fantastic views of Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags, as well as along Princess Street from the top. It’s a much shorter walk than Arthur’s Seat though – it should only take 5 minutes from the steps at Regent’s Road or Royal Terrace.

If you are interested in star gazing, there are also 2 observatories at the summit. The City Observatory reopened in 2018 and is a gallery and restaurant. The Old Observatory is used for functions and weddings.

And to Finish

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I hope you’ve enjoyed this extensive perfect 3 day Edinburgh Weekend itinerary. There is so much more to see and do in Edinburgh that I could write a book and still not be finished. This travel guide gives you a place to start as it covers most of the main attractions.

If you’ve enjoyed this post, and are thirsty for more Edinburgh insights, check out this post on sights tourists might not know about: https://travelingerelax.com/perfect-edinburgh-itinerary-guaranteed-to-make-you-feel-like-a-local/ or this one on day trips from Edinburgh: https://travelingerelax.com/in-search-of-scotland-3-great-day-trips-from-edinburgh/

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