Have you visited Edinburgh before? Think you have seen all there is to see? Think again!
Read on to discover a perfect Edinburgh Itinerary of 5 secret places to visit – places the locals know, but tourists probably don’t.
This perfect Edinburgh itinerary is for people who have visited Edinburgh before. You have seen the main tourist sites and are possibly wondering what else there is to see. Let me take you beneath the surface and behind the scenes to see more of what Edinburgh has to offer.
The Witches Well – The first stop on our Edinburgh Itinerary
You’ve probably visited Edinburgh Castle, but did you visit the Witches Well? This plaque is in memory of the 4000 witches burned at the stake on the very esplanade you have walked on?
In the 16th Century, more witches were burned at the stake in front of Edinburgh Castle than anywhere else in Scotland. That is 3 times more than in England and 4 times more than in Europe! The esplanade was an execution ground. Women accused of witchcraft were denied both a trial and a proper burial. Bodies were left to perish on the ground, that today, more than a million visitors walk on each year.
King James VI
Scotland’s King James VI who ruled between 1567 and 1603 believed witchcraft to be a form of Satanism. Possessing skills in herblore was a prime way to become accused. By the 17th Century most ‘witches’ were killed by hanging. The last witch was hung on the esplanade in 1728.
The drinking fountain was commissioned in 1894 by Sir Patrick Geddes and created by John Duncan. Duncan was a famous artist who was heavily influenced by Celtic myth and legend.
If you look closely at the plaque you will see bronze images of heads of gods of health and medicine, to represent the witches. A serpent with foxgloves in the background are entwined around the heads. Duncan uses dualism to suggest that there are 2 sides to every story. The foxglove plant can be used for medicinal purposes, but can also be used as a poison. Similarly, snakes are seen to be both simultaneously imbued with wisdom and suggested to be evil.
You should definitely take a look on your next visit to Edinburgh. You can find the Witches Well on the wall on the right hand side of the esplanade. The wall currently is part of the Textile Weaving Mill, just turn right and look along the wall – it’s easy to miss.
The next stop on this perfect Edinburgh itinerary is Edinburgh Vaults
You’ve maybe visited Mary Kings Close, but did you know there are more of Edinburgh’s underground secret passageways to explore?
I remember the Vaults opening in Edinburgh, not long after I moved to the city, but it took me a long time before I dared to venture down. These vaults have gained the dubious title of the most haunted places in Britain!
The vaults were created as part of the support system for George IV Bridge, which began being built in 1875. In time, the tenement flats we now see in the Cowgate were built to accommodate population needs; they surround the many support arches, until only the Cowgate arch that we see today was left.
The vaults were originally used for storage for the businesses above, but, as they had not been sealed against water, they quickly became damp and unusable. As the shop keepers moved out, the poorest of Edinburgh’s population moved in, and the South Bridge Vaults became a breeding ground for illegal activity. Imagine living in a damp, dark chamber with absolutely no outside light or ventilation!
Edinburgh’s Infamous Body Snatchers
There are stories that Burke and Hare, Edinburgh’s infamous body snatchers, used the vaults to store the bodies they had stolen from the graves before selling them onto the nearby medical school.
Excavating the vaults in the mid 1980’s revealed many household objects: old toys, broken medicine bottles, clay pipes, buttons, horse shoes, snuff boxes, cracked stoneware and ceramic jars, pots and plates – all visible signs of dwelling and inhabitation.
The Vaults have numerous tales of ghosts and spooky unexplained events. ‘The Walker,’ is the most famous story. The Walker is also known as ‘Mr Boots,’ so named because of the heavy, leather boots he is seen wearing. He is a tall, imposing man wearing a dirty blue coat. He is none too pleased about the visitors wandering around his home. Visitors have heard him telling them to ‘get out! Some have even come away with marks on their arms! Thankfully there was no sign of him on my visit!
Take a tour if you’re brave enough
There are many companies that offer tours of the vaults. I went with Mercat tours, the original Edinburgh Edinburgh ghost tour guides, on their Hidden & Haunted tour. https://www.mercattours.com/tours/ghost-tours/view-tour/hidden–haunted
Both Viator and Get your guide also have tours you can book online.
Edinburgh’s Wild West
I’d lived in Edinburgh for years before I heard of this. For number 3 on our perfect Edinburgh itinerary we venture into deepest, darkest Morningside, where we can find a desolate, deserted Wild West Street. Morningside is a lovely area of Edinburgh, full of little bespoke boutiques, artisan cafes and cool pubs. And randomly a wild west street.
The street was apparently the idea of a carpet retailer who used to operate out of the buildings. Whatever the reason behind it, it is a really cool corner of Edinburgh and well worth a wee stop over during your trip.
I recommend catching the bus up to Morningside, (there are many to choose from, numbers 16 and N11 are just 2) as parking is an issue.
Stroll back into central Edinburgh
After taking your Instagram shots in Edinburgh’s Wild West, you can take a slow stroll back into town, stopping for coffee and popping in and out of any cute shops that catch your eye. You’ll end up back at The Meadows, perfect to relax in on a warm summers day. You’ll see many locals and students just hanging out, going for their daily run or walking the dog. I’ve seen some weird and wonderful things going on by student groups while walking through the Meadows. There could be groups sword fighting or amateur dramatics being practised. Both made seeing the everday yoga and meditation seem tame 🙂 This area area gives you a true view of local Edinburgh life.
Roslyn Chapel – step out of the city on the next stop on our perfect Edinburgh itinerary
So you’ve visited St Giles Cathedral on the Royal Mile. Now it’s time on our local’s perfect Edinburgh itinerary to spread our wings a little further. From Edinburgh city centre, hop on a Lothian Service 37 and check that it says ‘Penicuik/ Deanburn’ at the front of the bus, (if in doubt, ask the driver!) It takes around 45 mins to an hour to make the journey by bus, but is only around 7 miles, so you could splash for a taxi.
Roslyn Chapel is most famous for it’s connection to Dan Brown’s novel and film ‘the Da Vinci Code.’ At the end of the film Tom Hanks is in the chapel itself, in an underground crypt, cracking the code. Visitor numbers rocketed from 34,000 in 2001 to 176,000 in 2006 – the year the film came out. Today numbers still stand at more than 150,000, which is incredible for such a small place.
The Gothic style chapel dates from the 12th Century, it’s long history had experts intrigued about the meaning of its many carvings, long before Dan Brown brought it to prominence. There are many links between the chapel, the Knights Templar, the lost ark of the covenant and the Holy Grail. Could there be remains of treasure under the Chapel? Rumours still persist that this is true.
Photography and video is not allowed inside the chapel. You’ll have to visit to see just how stunningly beautiful and well preserved it is.
Maison de Moggy
Are you a cat lover? If so, you can’t miss the opportunity to visit Edinburgh’s cat cafe Maison de Moggy. You will find the cafe just at the foot of the Grassmarket.
Get to know the cafe’s furry residents, whilst having a cuppa and a cake.
The staff are super welcoming. They will introduce you to all 12 of the the cats and tell you their backstories. They ask that you let the cats come to you for petting – which they will, just be patient.
The cats live permanently in the cafe. They have so many little cute houses, shelves and nests which allow them to snooze and feel safe.
The cats range from the super large Main Coons, to fluffy Ragdolls, British Shorthairs, and for me, the star of the show, Elodie the Egyptian Sphinx.
Elodie jumped on our table and was very curious about our cakes. Because she has no fur, to keep her warm she has a little nest, with a heat pad and a blanket. Her skin was surprisingly soft. She was just the most adorable cat.
Solo Female Travel Safety Rating
Edinburgh is totally safe to visit as a solo female traveller. I have lived here for years and never felt unsafe. During that time I’ve been on many a night out and waited for buses and taxis on my own. One of the great things about Edinburgh is that if are walking home and start to feel uneasy, for whatever reason, if you see a black cab with it’s light on, you can flag it down anywhere – you don’t have to call Uber, or wait in line. My only advice on safety would be not to walk through the Meadows alone at night. You’ll be fine in a group, but locals don’t do it, so I suggest you follow their lead.
Enjoyed this post? Save it for later
I hope you enjoyed reading about my local’s perfect itinerary. If you are interested in visiting Edinburgh, you may also enjoy this post on Day Trips from Edinburgh: https://travelingerelax.com/in-search-of-scotland-3-great-day-trips-from-edinburgh/
Have you visited Edinburgh before? Is there anywhere you think I should have included that I missed out? Let me know your thoughts below
