5 Stories that will inspire you to go too
I decided to ask five women, of a variety of ages and experience in travelling, five questions on just what their experience of solo female travel in India has been.
Safety is a big concern when travelling as a solo female. In this post 5 women discuss the joys and the perils of solo female travel in India.
India is high up on my bucket list of places to travel. The incredible history, food and culture, plus the opportunity to study yoga and meditation where it began make India a sort after tourist destination.
Yet India also has a somewhat dire reputation for the way women are treated. Many return from their solo female travel experience with stories of verbal and sexual abuse.
Let’s meet the ladies
Sharon was burnt out from her career when she first visited India. Now having been on her fourth visit, she holds it dear to her heart.
Anjani Devi has been visiting India regularly since the age of 17; now she travels with her husband and her daughters, so has lots of experienc eof solo female travel in India
Karen has recently retired and only just begun to travel solo. She found herself in India just as the Covid pandemic arose. She has now been living there for over a year.
Kanupriyaa was brought up in India, which gives her a very different view to the other ladies. She began travelling within India at 17 and hasn’t stopped since.
Veronica has been travelling for years following the deaths of her close family. She finds ways to visit and stay with locals as much as she can, and at this point has stayed with over 200 families. She has spent a considerable amount of time as a solo female travel in India.
Ok, Grab a cuppa, ‘cos this is a long one! Settle in and let’s get started
My first question to the ladies: What is your experience of visiting India as a woman? Do you feel safe?
Sharon: My experiences of visiting India are overwhelmingly positive! I have never felt unsafe. People are incredibly kind and helpful. It might help that I’m very friendly person and love to wiggle my head a lot!
Karen: I have felt very safe, everywhere we have went. . We take a lot of Rickshaws, and have travelled several times by local buses (never on a tour bus), and we have travelled by train (my preferred mode of travel. Ask for help if you need it, someone around you speaks English, and will be glad to assist. (With booking tickets, directions, where to find stuff, cost of item). Have translate app on your phone – big help!
Kanupriyya: I grew up in India so my experience is completely different from someone that has never visited. I feel safe because I know every single trick to keep myself safe and what to avoid. But I recommend anyone not from India to travel in groups because the culture is so different they would not be able to grasp what is safe or not in just a matter of days.
Anjani Devi: I am aware of how lucky I have been to have so many intimate experiences whilst in India: spiritually and emotionally.
I have visited as a solo female, in groups of other women, as a married woman, as a mother and as a friend to our dear loved ones that we have met along the way. In each of those roles, I have been respected as well as comforted by the genuine hospitality that I have received each step of the way.
As far as safety is concerned, I have of course found myself in some vulnerable predicaments along the way, but that’s life! However, I have always felt a sense of security and a knowing that people around me will help if they can.
Veronica: I trust USING COMMON SENSE… I never have felt unsafe in India. On the contrary , I amazed by the level of hospitality here.
I have hitchhiked with many types of people: from police, to monks, soldiers, foreigners or natives in tour buses also. I always travel alone, never had a bad experience. However, girls should know that Indians are very curious about foreigner, so they always want to take a selfie and ask many questions. Sometimes the whole interrogatory could be a little overwhelming, but you can simply say I don’t want to talk. You are always in charge .
Question 2: What 3 things do you think a woman should be most aware of when traveling in India?
Sharon: India is still a very traditional country. While the cities are much more modern, with many Indian girls wandering around in skimpy clothing, unless I’m on the beach in Goa I always dress appropriately. At the very least always have a scarf with you that you can drape across your chest. This is the go to modesty saving device! It goes on backwards with the ends going back over the shoulders.
If you’re travelling solo another top tip would be to get an Indian Sim card for your phone, as Wi-Fi is often unavailable. It takes away any stress. You will need to go to a phone shop with an Indian national, (preferably a man dare I say it?!) who will be your referee – be prepared to spend at least an hour, maybe more sorting this out. You may have to go back later to pick it up. Mine cost a total of £7.50 for three months with plenty of data, texts and calls. It really is worth it, especially if you are booking accommodation/flights/travel on the hoof like I do.
Karen: Leave good jewellery at home in safe, don’t wear or bring ANYTHING you can’t bear to lose. Notify your banks (corporate and local level) and credit cards in writing , in advance of where you will be traveling. Dress modestly ( keep shoulders and legs covered ), be aware of your surroundings, wear money belt with important things in it like passport, visa, cash, insurance card,
Kanupriyya: You need to be really careful how you dress. India is very conservative and I hate it but I understand it. You need to have a trusted local guide and not go on adventures yourself. You do not know the country, please don’t go out alone. Lastly you need to be really careful when you are outside after dark. Never travel alone in the dark even if you are traveling solo. Ask your hotel to send a car.
Anjani Devi: I think considering the common pre-conditioned ideas where women are ‘supposed to’ travel in fear in order to maintain the global structure of patriarchy is a good place to start. For me, I like to analyse and challenge these concepts. I’m not for one moment underestimating the disgraceful numbers of gender based violence instances across the globe, but I am the kind of person who is determined not to allow these unsettling statistics to consume or silence me. I think it’s far more effective to tell men not to abuse women than feeding into the victim blaming culture that exists across the world.
Secondly, do your research. If you are travelling to an area where there are more traditional views, respect them. Intercultural competence is something you learn along the way, so just keep your wits about you and ‘do as the locals do’ if you want to get the most out of an experience. Learning a few basic phrases can also make a big difference and enrich your experiences too. Lastly, always know the details of the nearest hospital, police station and embassy. It’s a good idea to keep emailed copies of your visa and passport too.
Veronica: Common sense is enough as a solo female travel in India. Dress modestly. Many ladies wear saris , so to walk with a mini short in certain places can bring many annoying admirers. Be mindful with your surroundings. I don’t drink, so I don’t visit bars, but if you do be conscious about your drinking or go with friends who will be sober. However, girls should be honestly aware of their current beliefs…if you believe that males are ready to jump on you in each corner, chances are that they will.
Question 3. Do you feel concerns about a solo female being safe in India are justified or exaggerated?
Sharon: I have only had good experiences in India – and I really have done many things that many women would think of as being very risky – such as going up into rock temples at night with a young man, who was rather keen (I wasn’t but he was a great tour guide!)
Watching the moon rise over the ancient temples while sitting in a Shiva Lingum was one of the most incredible experiences I’ve ever had. Nothing untoward happened. My only mistake was not to take my insect repellent with me (and ending up having to go to hospital with 100 mosquito bites in Pondicherry on Christmas Day – but that’s another story)!
Men will often offer you a lift on their scooter – I’ve never had any trouble with this either! But you will quickly find out that Indian traffic is really crazy! I love tuk tuk’s! Anything you don’t like just smile, wiggle your head from side to side, say ‘no thank you!’ repeatedly and walk away.
Karen: Anything can happen to anyone. Always be aware, don’t walk down dark streets by yourself, (I wouldn’t do that at home. ). I haven’t had any problems, or felt threatened by any one. Smile a lot! Tell them you love their country!
Kanupriyya: I believe that concerns about solo female travel in India are justified to an extent. You cannot expect to not do your research and then go out and expect everything to be fine. India is a dangerous country for women and everyone knows that but I do not believe that you cannot travel there alone if you have the experience like I do. I believe safety is important but travellers disregard that and then portray the entire experience in a bad light.
Anjani Devi: I don’t have concerns as a solo female traveller in India and I will encourage my own daughters to do so when they are older. Again, I am not saying there aren’t issues, but gender-based issues are global problems. The western media often only focus on the dark side!
Veronica: I have the belief that reality is a reflection of your inner world…I feel that I live in a benevolent world because this has been my first hand experience. I have not watched TV for years, so my source of information is the reality in front of me, not what other people say
Question 4: Have you had any negative experiences? If so, how did you deal with it?
Sharon: I’ve had bad food poisoning just once in my four trips. Seeing a doctor or getting seen at a hospital is easy and cheap. Medications are also cheap. Be prepared to see some difficult sights – human poverty, neglected animals or animals being badly treated, many people will approach you wanting money. Be prepared for very different hygiene standards… especially on bus breaks. I stick to vegetarian food. Learn to squat in advance! All the way down means no splashback
On the begging front I’ve found that if you’re anywhere near a chai (milky tea) stall, it will make people very happy if you buy them a chai which costs the equivalent of 10p a throw. There are lots of little traps – always assume that nothing is free, always make sure that you agree on a price on anything before you take up an offer.
Karen: The pandemic has been a negative, because we have been in lockdown at a friend’s condo for 88 days. We want to be traveling and sightseeing.
Kanupriyya: I have had some negative experiences like being harrassed and stared at for my modern sense of fashion and the fact that I set up a huge tripod wherever I go, but the good has always outweighed the bad. If you are a solo woman traveler you have to be thick skinned and let the bad things just slide off you.
Anjani Devi: I remember being pregnant whilst in the small desert town of Jaisalmer and becoming ill from exhaustion and dehydration. At first I was quite upset and nervous since I was so far away from home, but everyone around me wanted to help in any way that they could! The doctor who came to see me even spoke to my unborn child as his hands gently supported my pregnant belly, giving his blessings to her which I thought was incredibly beautiful. By putting my trust into others around me, the support shown by everyone turned a daunting experience into something of comfort, peace and protection.
Veronica: No negative experiences…I feel here like home
Question 5: Tell me why you believe women should come to visit India
Sharon: There are 1000’s of reasons to travel to India – it’s so culturally rich and different from the west. It has everything, incredible history, extraordinarily exotic ancient temples, palaces and forts, beautiful art, textiles, it’s so colourful, the food is amazing (it will always be spicy though!) And it’s very cheap!
Sharon is continuing her travels, she is currently exploring Central America.
Karen: India is fascinating! I have run into, and befriended many women traveling solo, or with a gf, or with a guy friend or husband. So much to see. So very inexpensive! Lots to do, everywhere! India was not originally on my bucket list, but I am so very glad I came.
If you would like to follow Karen’s travels, she is on FB. At the moment she is continuing to ride out the pandemic in Kerala. Find her at https://www.facebook.com/karen.w.cardwell
Kanupriyya: India is an amazing country. I have travelled every single part of it alone and with family and it continues to blow my mind. I even plan on having my wedding in India and showing my American friends the country. Yes the dangers are there but dangers are present in every single country if you aren’t careful. If you plan an Indian trip the right way, it’s going to be the most memorable trip you have ever had.
You can follow Kanupriyya on her blog https://sunsetjeans.com/ and on Instagram @ https://www.instagram.com/mylostcamel/
Anjani Devi: I strongly advise women to visit or travel around India as it can be a place for expansion and self-discovery. I know it has been and remains to be for me anyway. It is a place of such acceptance no matter what your story is as we are all on our karmic journeys together, and who knows who or what we may come across along the way. I can guarantee you this: India will make it an exciting ride, whether that’s on a handmade, rickety boat floating down the backwaters of Kerala or bumping over potholes in the speedy rickshaws of the Punjab. If you don’t go to India in this lifetime, be sure to do so in the next. Hari Om!
Ashley is a yoga teacher and specialises in offering students a chance to experience traditional and authentic practice. She is currently offering online classes, check her out here: https://www.facebook.com/HolisticYogaShetland/
Veronica: Women (and males because I don’t put them apart) should definitively visit India …if they like beautiful fabrics, sophisticated pashiminas, luxurious handmade carpets, dresses, shoes, any kind of imaginable teas, jewels, exotic spices is a great place. Landscapes are phenomenal, adventurous activities, incredible festivals and the most important thing PEOPLE. Indians are friendly, hospitable…they vary from primitive to modern and everything in between. In big cities people are more westernized, but you can find interesting tribes also.
Veronica is currently living in India. If you would like to follow her on FB you can find her at https://www.facebook.com/vcpere
So there we have it. Thankyou if you have stayed with us all the way to the end 🙂
So, what is our conclusion on the safety of solo female travel in India?
It seems that all the ladies have had positive experiences in India. Kanupriyya is the most hesitant re safety, but I guess, having lived there longer than anyone gives her more of an insight into occurrences that we might not experience as tourists. The ongoing theme seems to be use common sense, take the same precautions you would anywhere else and dress modestly.
I hope that this post has helped allay some of your fears of solo female travel throughout India. It certainly has me. I look forward to meeting you all in India on your travels.
Have you been to India already? Leave me a comment below to share your experience of safety.
Has all this talk of India got you interested in booking a trip?
Let me help you book through my travel agency business. If you are based in the UK, send me an email with your requirements to tracy@travelingerelax.com
Interested in staying in a desert camp in Northern India? Check out Damadra Desrt Camp in the Thar desert (near the border with Pakistan) run by friends of Anjani Devi http://www.damodra.com/ It’s on my bucketlist!
What are your thoughts on visiting India as a solo female traveller? Join the conversation by leaving a comment below?
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[…] The next most common question was, ‘is it safe?’ I answered that question in my post, Is it Safe to Travel as a Solo Female in India? so I’m not going to write more on that topic […]
Really interesting article – I enjoyed reading about the different perspectives. Makes me want to visit India!
Thanks Roxanne, I appreciate that. I’m so desperate to go!
Thank you for sharing this inside look of what it is really like! I agree that you really just have to have some common sense and take precautions as you would anywhere else!
Yes, common sense seems to be the advice, I’m more confident I would be ok than I was before – still a bit nervous though
Thank you so much for sharing. India is still on my bucket list and I have always gone back and forth about doing it solo.
Me too! I’m still not sure if I would take the plunge – maybe after I’ve done a little more travelling…