Secrets to Your Best Shetland Trip Ever: 10 Essential Highlights Not to Miss

What would your best Shetland trip highlights be? Vikings? Simmer Dim? Kilts and Haggis? What is the first thing that springs to mind when you think of Shetland? Possibly the Police show of the same name on the BBC? (The new series is due to start filming April 2021 if you’re a fan).

The thing I have found most surprising about Shetland is how not Scottish it feels. I’ve never heard any bagpipes in the four years I’ve lived here. No-one wears kilts. They have their own dialect, (for example no-one say ‘wee’ for small, they say ‘peerie’) and they have their own steps to the Scottish country dancing.

Shetlanders see themselves as separate from Scotland. This is probably due to their Viking heritage – it was colonised by the Vikings in the 9th Century. Equidistant from both Scotland and Norway (to which it belonged until being gifted to Scotland in 1472 as part of a wedding gift), Shetland has its own distinct identity.

Our population regularly doubles when cruise ships pop in over the summer – I kid you not. The population of Lerwick, our only town, is approx 5000. There is one cruise ship that comes with a population that matches Lerwick. It blows my mind!

Shetland is a tourist paradise. It’s a special place. The first time I stepped off the plane at Sumburgh airport, the sun shone for me; the air was so clean, a hint of saltwater on the breeze and the sky was immense. With no trees or skyscrapers to block the view you can literally see for miles. You can breathe.

Essential Highlights

Shetland provides a kind of respite from the world. It is a peaceful, rural idyll. If you love hiking, bird-watching, history and traditional crafts, you will love a visit to Shetland. If your idea of a holiday is a thriving metropolis with a vibrant nightlife, then I’ll be honest – it’s probably not going to be for you! We have no fast food chains – no MacDonald’s, no Starbucks, no wine bars and no designer outlets. What we do have is local artisan stores, with staff who have the time to talk with you.

Shetlanders are very proud of their island and their heritage. Let me be your tour guide and show you the highlights of what Shetland has to offer.

Best Shetland Trip Highlights: Hiking

Walking is what I was most looking forward to moving to Shetland. There are coastal paths that follow dramatic cliff faces; inland paths that run over heather moors to inland lochs; everywhere you turn there are scenic views, an extensive array of wildflowers and birdlife, ancient castles and ruined cottages galore: all under the widest sky. You are never more than two miles form the coast in Shetland, so many walks incorporate both coastal and inland paths.

Shetland doesn’t have any mountains or Munros to climb, but it does have 19 Marilyn’s. ‘A what?’ I hear you cry! I’d never heard of a Marilyn either, until I came to Shetland. It means a hill that has a drop of at least 150 metres on each side. Ronas Hill is the most popular local climb at 450m. The walk is approx 6.5 km and should take around 2 1/2 hours in total. See a review of the walk here https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=36083

Climbing

If climbing hills is a bit too strenuous, a gentle stroll around St Ninian’s Isle is my favourite walk on the island. Starting at Bigton in the South Mainland area, you walk across a tombola of sand to reach the tiny island. You can walk around it in a couple of hours and quite possibly, your only company will be the sheep. It has 360 degree stunning views and, as a bonus, the ruins of a tiny old church in which genuine treasure was found back in the 1950’s. A detailed description of the walk is here: https://www.shetland.org/visit/do/outdoors/walk/st-ninians-isle-circular

For more information on walks in Shetland, click here: https://www.shetland.org/visit/do/outdoors/walk

Shetland Highlights: Beaches

The beaches of Shetland are its number one best feature in my opinion. Deserted stretches of soft, white sand and turquoise waters. You could be in Asia easily (if only it were warmer!)

Best Shetland Trip:Viking Heritage

Jarlshof is a historic settlement that spans 4,000 years of human activity, stretching from the Neolithic period into the 1600s AD. There are impressive remains from the Bronze Age, Iron Age, Viking and mediaeval periods. When you visit there is an audio tour included in the entrance fee that helps you make sense of what you are seeing.

If you would like to find out more about Jarlshof, click here: https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/jarlshof-prehistoric-and-norse-settlement/

This replica longboat, that you can see for free in Unst, actually sailed here from Denmark. The story goes that a group were trying to replicate the journey the Vikings took. Unfortunately, they had issues with the mast during high winds and pulled into Lerwick. There, their bad luck continued as they couldn’t raise the money to fix the boat. Eventually they had to abandon both their journey and the boat, which they then generously donated to Shetland, who moved it to its current location in Unst, next to a Viking longhouse.

When you climb up into it your mind will be blown at the thought of living and sleeping on that narrow deck in the middle of the ocean!

Shetland Highlights: Up Helly Aa Fire Festival

Once a year, in January, Shetland holds its famous fire festival. Up Helly Aa has become the winter festival to visit. The spectacle of 1000 men, dressed as Vikings, marching, singing and carrying flaming torches as they pull a replica Viking Longboat around the streets of Lerwick, is a sight not to be missed. The finale consists of the squads hurling their torches to set fire to the longboat, creating a huge bonfire. The party then continues all night long in the village halls.

Interesting local fact: ‘Up Helly Aa’ is Shetland dialect for ‘up all night’ as that’s how long the party lasts!

If you’re interested, here’s a wee video that explains the event in more detail.

Shetland is renowned for being a windy place. You might think that it looks a bit dangerous – all those lighted torches. And you would be right. Look closely and you’ll see men patting each others backs and shoulders; they’re not just being friendly, they’re putting out sparks that have caught alight on their friends clothes!!

There’s a song that all the men sing as they march through the streets:

If you want to join in the festivities I recommend you book early. Accommodation and tickets for the halls sell out fast.

Wildlife, Whales, Puffins… and other birds…

Shetland is also renowned for it’s wildlife. Puffins flock to the islands in May, June, and July, you are almost certain to see them on the cliffs. One popular spot for this is at Sumburgh Head Lighthouse. I’m not really into birdwatching, but, if it’s your thing, this sight will tell you all you need to know https://www.shetland.org/visit/do/wildlife/birds

Did you know that Shetland is also known for its Orca sightings? Many pods of whales visit the islands each year and if you’re lucky you may get to see them. It took me 3 years of whale watching before I managed to get to see these magnificent creatures for myself. I have friends who Kayak and fish and have had extreme close encounters with them swimming past. There is a FB group that follows sightings, if you are visiting the island I highly recommend you join, just in case: https://www.facebook.com/groups/shetlandorcasightings.

Alternatively, if you see crowds of people parked in one of the many viewpoints, that’s a big clue that whales are around. You can follow them from one end of the island to the other

Whales in Gulberwick Bay, 4th July 2020 – not my photos, my camera is not good enough for these close-up shots.

Shetland Folk Festival

Every spring Shetland welcomes musicians and fans from all over the world for the UK’s most northerly music festival. It lasts a week culminating with a large concert on the final night.

There is also a fiddle and accordion festival that takes place each October. This festival focuses more on local talent and culminates in a huge local ceilidh style dance (Can’t call it a ceilidh on Shetland! It’s Shetland dancing). Local musician Peter Wood has been entertaining us throughout lockdown, check him out on his FB pagehttps://www.facebook.com/100022366540418/videos/904474083641468

Wool Week

Wool week happens each year in November. It is a celebration of traditional and Fair Isle knitting. There are classes on knitting, weaving, dying and spinning your own wool. If this sounds interesting check out the website where last year’s festival was online and you can watch some of the classes that were on offer. https://www.shetlandwoolweek.com/events/

Shetland Highlights: Best Place for Coffee

So with all this activity you will need somewhere to recover. Shetland has some really cute coffee shops to pop into when you’re in need of refreshment. Here are 3 of my favourite:

Fjara

Fjara has a Scandinavian feel to it, with it’s open beams and light, wood interior. It is has the best views on the Mainland. It is situated in Lerwick, right on the coastline and has a floor to ceiling windows to make the most of the view. Best for iced coffee and cakes and brunch.

Victoria’s Tea Room, Unst

Victoria’s Tea Room, Unst (https://www.victoriasvintagetearooms.co.uk/) has a fabulous selection of coffee, cakes and ice cream. They do an amazing afternoon tea, which you should definitely book for. And the ladies that own it are just the loveliest people. They use old china teapots and plates and have seating outside with this view:

C’est le Vie

https://www.facebook.com/Cestlavielerwick/

C’est le Vie is not very Shetland, or even Scottish as the owners are both French. But this means the most excellent coffees, pastries and croque monsieur ever!

C’est le Vie

Simmer Dim is a local phrase that refers to the long days in June. At this time of year the sun doesn’t really set. It hovers just out of sight for an hour or two in the dead of night.

I love this short video about living on Shetland in the summer –

Have I convinced you that Shetland is a great place to visit?

I have a love for Shetland that I’m sure will remain with me as I travel the world. The people, the scenery and it’s unique culture will stay with me.

If you plan to come remember to bring warm clothes even in summer. The temperature doesn’t often reach the heady heights of 17 degrees celcuis. You can spot locals out in their t-shirts enjoying the balmy weather, while the tourist are bundled up in down jackets and wooly hats !

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Hope to see you here soon (as soon as we are allowed!)

Have you been to Shetland? Let me know in the comments your favourite place or activity