In the heart of this enchanting archipelago, a mesmerising fusion of history, tradition, and pure Viking spirit comes to life every year in the form of the Up Helly Aa fire festival.
You’re about to embark on an extraordinary journey where blazing torches illuminate the winter night, and the echoes of Nordic legends reverberate through the ancient streets. It’s a festival like no other, a unique celebration of fire, community, and cultural heritage. Join me on a thrilling adventure as we unveil the secrets of Up Helly Aa. A vibrant event that promises camaraderie, discovery, and the kind of unforgettable memories that solo travelers treasure. Let’s ignite your spirit and delve into the heart of Shetland’s fiery soul.
What is Up Helly Aa?
Up Helly Aa, Shetland’s fiery annual extravaganza, sets the winter skies ablaze in Lerwick every last Tuesday of January. For 2024 this means the event takes place on Tuesday January 30th. Rooted in tradition, it serves as the grand finale of the Yuletide festivities – a day dedicated to fire, feasting, and frolicking. And speaking of merriment, the festival’s origins harken back to a time when Shetlanders reveled in rolling flaming tar barrels through the town. This tradition, over time, lost its charm due to the rather hazardous side effect of house fires. In 1874, the fiery barrel-rolling was wisely banned.
But the Shetlanders were not ready to relinquish their Yule celebrations. Drawing inspiration from their deep Nordic roots and a history that saw Shetland as part of Norway for over 600 years, the Victorians gave birth to a new tradition.
In 1876, the first organized procession took to the streets, marking the festival’s evolution into the spectacular event it is today. The highlight of todays event is the burning of the Galley, a replica Viking Longboat. People from all corners of the globe gather to witness this extraordinary spectacle, testament to the enduring spirit of Shetland’s Up Helly Aa.
What Happens at Up Helly Aa?
The festival is much more than just a parade – it’s a 24 hour community event!
On the morning of the festival, the Jarl, the esteemed leader of the parade for the year, gathers with his dedicated Viking squad at the Isleburgh Community Centre. The squad can contain as many as 70 men, all dressed in matching Viking costumes. There is always a moment of anticipation and excitement as this year’s Viking costume design is revealed. The squad then embark on a march through the town, pulling their Viking Galley, following a meticulously planned route that leads them to the Bressay Ferry Terminal.
Ideal spots to catch this thrilling parade include along Commercial Street or at the vibrant Market Cross, where the heart of the action unfolds. As the Jarl Squad proceeds, traditional Up Helly Aa songs fill the air, harmonizing with the joyous cheers and resonant roars, accompanied by dramatic axe-waving that never fails to delight the jubilant crowds.
Once they reach the ferry terminal there is time for official photographs. The Jarl Squad then leave to visit schools and hospitals. You cannot begin to imagine the excitement the children of Shetland experience at Up Helly Aa. It is the equivalent to Christmas day. Once the Jarl Squad has visited the school, it closes for the day to allow the children to take part in the celebrations.
The Evening Parade
The highlight of the festival unfolds during the evening parade when the Jarl Squad is joined by 45 other squads, all adorned in whimsical costumes. Each member carries a lit torch, creating a breathtaking spectacle of approximately 1,000 flickering flames illuminating the early Shetland night. The darkened sky serves as a canvas for this extraordinary display.
The Jarl Squad, once more, takes charge of pulling their Viking Galley through the winding streets of Lerwick, their voices raised in traditional Up Helly Aa songs. The procession culminates in a central park. Here words fall short in capturing the sight of a thousand men encircling the galley, their voices coming together. Then, as if by some magical cue, the torches are tossed into the galley one before you know it, the galley itself is ablaze, becoming a roaring fire that defies the enveloping blackness of the night. It’s an indescribable moment of fiery grandeur, a sight to behold and a memory to treasure.
The After Party
You would be forgiven for thinking that nothing could top the spectacle of the galley blazing against the dark Shetland night. And while this may be true, there is a whole night of dancing, skits, drinking and singing taking place in village halls all around the town. Each squad, in turn, visits each hall. They each sing or do a short comedy skit. In between visits there is a Ceilidh ongoing, with traditional Shetland dancing, soup and sandwiches half way through the night and if you make it through to morning, bacon rolls.
Tourists can find it challenging to obtain tickets for these halls due to the limited number available. Ask your accommodation if they can get tickets for you. You can also keep an eye on the Shetland Times, as they sometimes advertise tickets. Or try contacting the Shetland Tourist Board to see if they can help you. They may put you on a waiting list, but there is no guarantee that hall tickets will be available.
Up Helly Aa Event Details 2024
Jarl Squad Timetable
Outlined below is the outline timetable for the Jarl Squad for Tuesday morning:
08:15 Leave Islesburgh Community Centre and march down King Harald Street towards Toll Clock Shopping centre via King Haakon Street, St Sunniva Street and Gilbertson Road.
09:00 March to British Legion from Toll Clock Shopping Centre.
09:40 Leave British Legion and march along Esplanade, along Commercial Street pausing at the Bill located at Market Cross. Finish at Bressay Ferry Terminal for photos; please note area is cordoned off for official photos.
10:30 Depart Bressay Ferry Terminal for civic reception.
Throughout the rest of the morning and early afternoon there are a series of visits to the Primary Schools, Hospitals and eventide homes with some lunch in between.
15:30 Visit Shetland Museum.
19:15 Guizer Jarl Squad passes up the ranks of the Guizers.
19:30 Procession commences.
21:15 Visit first hall of evening.
Event timings courtesy of uphellyaa.org
Tips to have the best experience at Up Helly Aa
Watch out for sparks
Watch out for sparks from the torches. You will see the squads slapping each other on the back as they march. While you might think this is just camaraderie, the men are actually patting out sparks from the torches that have landed on the clothes of the man in front. Shetland is a wee bit windy on the calmest of days; at the end of January there could be fierce winds blowing sparks far and wide.
Best Viewpoint
If you want to get a good view of the galley being burned, get to the park early. The best viewpoint is from the top side, looking down the slope. You can see the large area without grass where the galley will be on fire. The downside of this plan is that you can’t follow the parade, but you do get an amazing view of the squads circling the galley before it gets lit.
Dress warm
Wrap up warm. Like seriously warm! Hanging around for hours in the cold January night air is not going to be warm. Be prepared for freezing wind and possibly horizontal rain. A woolly hat and a waterproof windbreaker coat are musts. You might want to consider wearing thermals and taking hand warmers to slip inside your gloves.
Junior Up Helly Aa
A vibrant tradition at Up Helly Aa is the inclusion of a Junior Squad, ensuring that the spirit of the festival is passed down to the next generation. These young participants, dressed in costume and bearing torches, march alongside the galley they’ve meticulously designed and constructed, mirroring the grandeur of their adult counterparts. And, true to the festival’s fiery tradition, these junior members cap their parade with the blazing spectacle of their own galley set alight. It’s a heartwarming display of continuity and a testament to the enduring legacy of Up Helly Aa.
Navigating the Festival as a Solo Traveler
Shetland is probably the safest place you’ll ever visit. Take advantage of local friendliness and strike up a conversation with the person standing in the cold next to you. Shetland locals will be really happy to talk to you about the festival and what to expect.
Preparing for your trip
Book early. There are only a limited amount of accommodation options on the island, and Shetland Fire Festival is an extremely popular tourist attraction.
Up Helly Aa conclusion
As we come to an end on this vibrant journey into the heart of Shetland’s Up Helly Aa, it’s impossible not to be captivated by the festival’s unique tapestry of tradition, fire, and unwavering camaraderie. For solo female travelers over 40, this adventure is an open invitation to embrace the extraordinary, where fiery torches light up the night sky, Viking chants reverberate through ancient streets, and a rich community spirit welcomes you with open arms.
Up Helly Aa has a unique spirit. It’s a celebration like no other, where history and modernity converge in a glorious blaze of glory. From the Junior Squads to the grand procession and the grand finale of fiery galleys, it’s an event that will linger in your memory, forever.
So, to all adventurous solo travelers over 40, I encourage you to embark on this remarkable journey. Let Up Helly Aa be your fire-lit path to Shetland’s soul, a journey that’s not just about the destination, but the unforgettable moments, connections, and experiences you’ll gather along the way. The call of the wild and the warmth of community await. It’s time to ignite your spirit, and embrace the adventure of a lifetime. Up Helly Aa beckons – will you heed the call?
Where to Find Out More
Learn More About Shetland
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